Fashion Columbia Study Collection has an active exhibition schedule.
This exhibition was the product of the Fashion Design course: Contemporary Fashion: 1947 to Present Day. The students selected and researched eight designers represented in the Fashion Columbia Study Collection: Chanel (Karl Lagerfeld), Dior (Yves Saint Laurent), Claire McCardell, Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Pucci, Yohji Yamamoto.
The inspiration for this exhibition was generated by teaching the class: Fundamentals of Fashion Design, which is offered in the Fashion Design Program in the Art and Design Department. Part of the process of becoming a designer is to find and develop sources of inspiration; at Columbia College Chicago it is an important and essential part of art and design education. The four designers selected for this exhibition have developed completely different approaches to the design process; Jane Hamill is inspired by fabric, Paul Sisti by color, Julie Fehler by vintage style and Dieter Kirkwood by line and form. Each designer's approach may stem from a different source, but the end result is the same: designs that please the client or customer and make them want to buy more of the product in the coming seasons.
Julie Fehler, who graduated from the University of Cincinnati's, College of Design, Architecture, Art and Planning, is one half of the dynamic design duo Dame Couture with her business partner Holly Greenhagen. Dame Couture specializes in vintage-inspired fashion with an emphasis on special occasion dressing such as bridal and evening gowns. The concept behind the business is to create an opportunity for the customer to dress as a "…special version of themselves". Both Fehler and Greenhagen agree that brides often end up dressed in a way that does not reflect their individuality; they become 'The Bride' in a dress that they feel is special but not personal. Dame Couture provides an opportunity for the client to develop a "…bridal edition of their normal selves"; so that on the 'big day', the bride can relax in the knowledge that she is beautifully dressed and comfortable. Their clients range in age from 20s to 50s and tend to have a strong sense of what they want, and how they want to look. Their gowns could be considered couture or bespoke, because they are selected by the client from a range of available samples, then constructed using a custom-made pattern, a toile (muslin) and a series of fittings to achieve a perfect fit. In addition, all the garments are hand-finished. The two-piece ensemble on display is Fehler's own wedding gown. Fehler is originally from Kentucky and her husband is from Iowa; they share a love for Country and Western and Rockabilly music of the 40s and 50s. As a result, they decided on a 'western' theme for the nuptials and celebrated their marriage in a barn in Willowbrook, Illinois, in October 2002. Fehler had always wanted to make a corset and perceived her own wedding as a perfect opportunity; combined with the gingham bustle skirt, the ensemble has a period style with a distinctly modern twist. The jacket made by Fehler for her husband Matt, emphasizes the western motif; he wore a cowboy hat to further enhance the theme. Fehler's main inspirational source stems from vintage fashions of the 30s through the 50s. She also loves fabric, which because of its various properties can inspire a completely unexpected seam or drape, specific to the weight and weave of the cloth. Both Fehler and Greenhagen bring an unusual and inspirational dimension to their work; their aim is to satisfy their clients' desires while working within their own creative and inspirational vision.
Jane Hamill, originally from Michigan, is a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology. She set up business in Chicago in October 1992, with $27,000 in a 650 square foot space and a dream to succeed. Her designs are known for their simple elegance and creative use of texture and pattern. When asked where she derives the inspiration for her collections she said without hesitation: "fabric". Hamill scours fabric shows for unusual fabrics that fit with her own aesthetic and her customers' style. She describes her customers as "…young, upper middle-class professionals" who want to dress "…a little different" from the norm. Her clothes are pretty, feminine, sleek and stylish; her store Jane Hamill on Armitage is in the heart of Lincoln Park. Recently, while shopping at a fabric show in New York, Hamill discovered a luxuriously soft fleece that she thought would make excellent cozy turtle-necks. Her vision was sweaters in brown and burgundy, rich in color and texture; a perfect addition to the fall line. When she asked to see the color range was she was informed it was lavender, cream and pink; 'baby' colors. Disappointed at first she began to think of another possibility; to make blankets as gifts for her friend's new babies. She remarked that almost everyone she knows in their 30s is having a baby; Hamill is a working mother with a two year old son. The gifts were a great success, so she decided to start a new pilot line in baby accessories. The next thought was that the fabric would make wonderful comfy robes for the coming winter. The three robes on display are an example of a design refinement process. The original, a lavender oversized style was considered too big and not stylish enough for her customer; it is now the property of Hamill's father. The second in pink was a smaller scaled version, but after it was made, Hamill decided it was still not quite right and altered the sleeve. The final cream version is just right, with a silk lined pocket and sash. The trio of robes illustrates how design process often takes place. The initial idea was inspired by a luxurious fabric, then the scale was altered to be more suitable for the customer profile, and finally the details that set the design apart are worked out in the last version. Hamill has successfully been in business for fourteen years and each collection is fresh, appealing and customer specific; it takes a lot of creative energy to keep a business vital and Hamill has it in abundance.
Dieter Kirkwood graduated in 2004 from Columbia College Chicago, Fashion Design Program. Originally from Florida, Kirkwood first studied sculpture. He sees fashion design as a form of sculpture in cloth; creating three dimensional forms from two dimensional fabrics. As a result, his clothing designs are largely focused on the structure and line of the garment. He describes his creative process as related to a "…modern aesthetic"; his first concern is line, "…the line is everything, it dictates cut, silhouette and fabric". He is somewhat influenced by the 60s and the scooter-culture 'mod' style: clean-cut and sharp. As each collection evolves, it is related to an intellectual concept; perhaps there was an interesting seam and cut from last season that needs to be reexamined, a delicate mood to be created. Then the sketches are drawn, patterns made and tested. Kirkwood sources the fabric as the last part of his creative process, he prefers fabrics without a distinctive texture; crisp poplins in neutral colors are his current favorite. His designs could be called minimalist, even stark, but in actuality they are subtly complex and intricate; an intellectual distillation of 'less is more'. He designs for the modern woman, she is "…professional, quick, a world traveler, she is not looking for approval". Her style is defined by "…quiet luxury and small details, she is augmenting her established persona" with her choice to wear a Dieter Kirkwood design. Kirkwood is eloquent and passionate about his work. The dress on display is an example of his intricate cut and subtle detailing; the white on white silk-screen is a restrained enhancement of the overall concept. He describes the silk-screened image of a tree branch in blossom as a symbol of "…metamorphosis" an attempt to "…capture the transition from winter into spring" Kirkwood has a clear and pristine vision; he is a sculptor in cloth.
Paul Sisti, originally from Indiana, has been in business in Chicago for over 25 years after graduating from Ray-Vogue School of Design (now known as the Illinois Institute of Art). Sisti has a distinctly personal vision related to his love of "…color and fabric", he feels that his evening wear should make a woman feel distinctive; he creates delectable "…confections" of exclusive hand-painted silks which he dyes himself. Sisti understands his clients' aesthetic; many of his customer's are loyal, repeat buyers. Others come to him as a result of seeing someone wearing one of his creations at an event. He also sells in the New York market and shows several times a year through Atelier Designers. His clients range in age from mid 20s upwards; his focus is on "…mature women of style". Sisti has a strong aesthetic relative to his bold use of color; he understands that his clients often have to possess a "…sense of self-confidence" to wear the bright colors he favors. He believes that clean lines and good fit are essential for style and comfort. Sisti often uses bias cut to create clothes that are elegant and chic; his aim is for "…timeless style" and "…investment dressing". Sisti has successfully endured the ups and downs of the fashion business. The post 9/11 slump that put so many people out of business provided an opportunity for Sisti to re-group and examine his customer base. He feels that it is essential for young designers to be aware of the "…business aspects of fashion" and that success is related to maintaining a successful range of "…basics which sell every season", but he also feels strongly that it is necessary to tailor and adapt a personal vision within the realms of salability, with client satisfaction as a bottom line. The evening gown on display is a combination of hand-painted blue and green silk with a ruffled hem. The classic lines and beautiful color combination create a striking silhouette. The length of fabric on the dress form is an example of some of Sisti's audacious color-use for the "…professional woman that is not afraid to dress up".
In collaboration with the Chicago Department of Cultural Affairs, Fashion Columbia Study Collection and the School of the Art Institute of Chicago produced an exhibition at the Chicago Tourism Center featuring Chicago-based clothing and accessory designers.
Dress is often a literal translation of 'you are what you wear' since tribal affiliations and rank are conveyed in the very fabric itself, providing a distinctive communication device for the wearer. This can be equally be said about the clothing and accessories worn in our own society, as well as the many cultures represented in the exhibition.
Most traditional textiles constitute a combination of construction and decorative technology. Many of the garments exhibit a combination of weaving, embroidery, printing and appliqué which are used to decorate and enhance the surface. Sartorial adornment is a powerful and personal expression of the 'self' and is not only applicable to the surface of a garment; some of the garments have a carefully selected lining material which, though never seen by anyone but the wearer, provides pleasure during the act of getting dressed. Traditionally a woman's 'worth' was determined by her ability to sew and create beautiful garments. The creation of dress demonstrates great skill and application to a specified task--both essential and highly valuable survival techniques in all societies.